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Jogakbo

Jogakbo · Seams & stitches

Flat-felled seam

쌈솔ssamsol

A wrapped seam that encloses both raw edges, clean on both sides for unlined patchwork.

Meaning
쌈 'wrapping' (from 싸다 'to wrap') + 솔 'seam'.
Used for
Single-layer 조각보 (모시, 사)

A seam in which one allowance wraps (싸다) the other, enclosing the raw edges and leaving a flat, clean seam on both faces. Used for unlined (홑) patchwork.

  1. 단면 · section조각 가 · piece A조각 나 · piece B솔기 · seam
    1Sew the two pieces together.
  2. 단면 · section자르기 · trim0.3–0.5 cm넓은 시접 · wide
    2Trim one seam allowance narrow (about 0.3-0.5 cm).
  3. 단면 · section싸기 · wrap
    3Fold the wider allowance over the trimmed one.
  4. 단면 · section한쪽으로 · fold to one side
    4Fold both flat to one side.
  5. 겉 · front단면 · section
    5Stitch down close to the fold.

History & tradition

Traditional; Joseon

One of the Korean seam finishes (솔) described in the encyclopedia. Because both raw edges are wrapped inside, the seam looks the same on both faces, which matters for unlined jogakbo of ramie or gauze that are seen against the light.

Used by makers of single-layer jogakbo today.

Sources
  1. encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Article/E0020449
  2. koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO202121555093205.pdf