Jogakbo · Seams & stitches
Kkaekki (fine double-finished) sewing
Fine double-finished sewing that leaves no raw edge on either face, used for sheer summer cloth.
- Meaning
- Literal meaning not given in the sources; the term names the fine double-finished sewing of summer clothes.
- Used for
- Translucent single-layer 조각보 and summer garments
A refined method in which seams are finished cleanly on both the inside and outside so that no raw thread shows. Used for translucent summer garments (깨끼저고리) of 사 and 모시. English-language craft literature uses 'gekki' for the triple-stitched, sealed flat seam of jogakbo that gives the 'window-pane' look.
- 1Stitch the seam.
- 2Trim and fold so that the raw edges are enclosed.
- 3Stitch again so that the seam is finished on both faces.
- 4Press flat. (Exact sequence varies by maker; see the bojagi-techniques research.)
History & tradition
Joseon; associated with summer hanbok
Kkaekki sewing finishes every seam cleanly on both faces and is best known from the translucent summer jacket, the 깨끼저고리. Hanbok masters such as Oh Jeong-ja keep it alive. English-language bojagi books call the related triple-stitched patchwork seam 'gekki'.
Shown in hanbok exhibitions and taught as an advanced technique.
Whether 'gekki' in English bojagi literature is exactly the same as Korean 깨끼바느질 is not settled.
Researched with medium confidence.