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Jogakbo

Jogakbo · Seams & stitches

Running stitch

홈질homjil

The basic Korean running stitch, used for most seams and for quilting lines.

Meaning
From 홈 'groove' + -질 'act of doing' (folk etymology; not confirmed in the sources).
Used for
Seams of lined and single garments; joining a pieced top to its lining; quilting lines
홈질 · running stitch

The most basic stitch: evenly spaced stitches through the layers.

  1. 단면 · section두 겹 · two layers
    1Hold two layers together in the left hand.
  2. 세 땀 · three stitches on옆에서 · side view
    2Load about three small stitches onto the needle.
  3. 천 ← · cloth back바늘 → · needle on당기기 · pull through
    3Push the cloth back while pushing the needle forward, then pull through.
  4. 단면 · section고르게 · even spacing
    4Repeat with even spacing.

History & tradition

Ancient; documented in Korean sewing manuals such as Kim Suk-dang's 1925 조선재봉전서

The encyclopedia calls it the foundation of Korean sewing; it was used for most garment seams. Before sewing machines arrived in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, all Korean clothes and household cloths were sewn by hand, and needlework was a core skill taught to girls. In bojagi it joins tops to linings and runs the lines of quilting.

Taught first in every hanbok and bojagi class.

The etymology of 홈질 is not explained in the encyclopedia; treat the 'groove' reading as uncertain.

Sources
  1. encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Article/E0020449
  2. encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Article/E0049003