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Jogakbo

Jogakbo · Seams & stitches

French-type seam

뒤웅솔 (통솔)dwiungsol (tongsol)

An enclosed seam sewn twice so the raw edge sits inside, like a French seam.

Meaning
Literal sense of 뒤웅 is not given in the sources; 솔 means 'seam'. 통솔 is 통 'whole, tube' + 솔.
Used for
Sleeve seams; sheer fabrics
겉 · right side단면 · section

Stitched on the right side, trimmed, turned so that the allowance is enclosed, then stitched again.

  1. 단면 · section조각 가 · piece A조각 나 · piece B안끼리 · wrong sides together
    1Sew wrong sides together.
  2. 단면 · section얕게 자르기 · trim
    2Trim the allowance shallow.
  3. 단면 · section뒤집어 다시 박기 · turn, sew again
    3Turn and sew again to enclose it.

History & tradition

Traditional; Joseon

The encyclopedia describes it on the curved sleeve seam (배래) of the summer jacket 적삼: stitched, trimmed and turned so the raw edge sits inside. 통솔 is the common modern name for this French-type seam.

The encyclopedia lists only 뒤웅솔; equating it with 통솔 follows craft usage.

Researched with medium confidence.

Sources
  1. encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Article/E0020449